A new generation of fashion collectors have an unquenchable thirst for archival designer pieces. It's haute vintage!
, the internet erupted with equal parts delight and dismay. While her red-carpet appearance was the most headline-grabbing moment of the night, many in the latter camp felt that the dress—famously worn by Monroe when she serenaded John F. Kennedy with “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” during a 1962 Democratic Party fundraiser—is a historical artifact best preserved under lock and key.
Valencia is part of a new crop of Insta-famous vintage dealers who are popularizing archival pieces. Once the exclusive domain of institutions, archivists and seasoned collectors, rare vintage now represents an opportunity for fashion enthusiasts to set themselves apart from everyone else on the hamster wheel of microtrends.
The demand for ultra-rare fashion has skyrocketed among celebrities and everyday shoppers alike, and just like with art collectors, this demand is reflected in market value . Since 2019, it’s been impossible not to notice the prevalence of Vivienne Westwood corsets from the 1980s and 1990s on everyone from Alexa Demie to Miley Cyrus to Megan Thee Stallion .
Jean Paul Gaultier is another designer experiencing a renaissance, with his body-con designs—from extreme corsets à la Madonna’s 1990 Blond Ambition tour to suggestiveThe popularity of archival Westwood and Gaultier could be chalked up to pop-culture influences—from—or body ideals. “[Their pieces] go perfectly hand in hand with the beauty culture we’re experiencing now: Girls who have BBLs can wear Gaultier because it’s Lycra,” says Valencia.
The idea of being able to wear art has always been central to the decisions of many a fashion enthusiast, so to have this mirrored in the way that we now collect special pieces as art is a boon. “An Eames chair is like a Westwood corset—it’s not only a mark of yourIf you, like many of us, missed out on those vintage Dior saddlebags, look no further than your own closet to start your archive.
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