The sandstone gem, home to Spain’s oldest university, resounds with history and tradition.
Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor, Spain’s grandest square, seems to celebrate life. Strolling across the square with Carlos, my guide, we passed a young man walking alone who suddenly burst into song. I asked Carlos why and he said, “Doesn’t it happen where you live?”
Our view was filled with people. Plaza Mayor has long been Salamanca’s community living room. The most important place in town, it seems to be continually hosting some kind of party. Spaniards love their paseo — it’s like multigenerational “cruising” without cars. While the old-timers gossiped and “tsk-tsked” at the young people, those young singles were out to see and be seen.
Near the university stands the Church of San Esteban, dedicated to St. Stephen the martyr. The church contains impressive cloisters, a pantheon of tombs, and a museum with illustrated 16th-century choir books. But everything is overwhelmed by the church’s Churriguera altarpiece, a textbook example of the style named after the artist. Quietly ponder the gold-plated cottage cheese as tourists shake their heads and say “too much” in their mother tongue.
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