It was W.C. Fields who first said “I cook with wine. Sometimes I even add it to the food”, and I guess that the phrase has been imprinted on millions of aprons…
To be clear, I don’t advocate getting buzzed while cooking, those scalpel-like Japanese knives don’t give you much room for error. When I whack the hell out of a chicken, or any other food group, I do like a glass of wine, however. The combination for me is cathartic. For a few hours, I revel in the chopping and sautéing, taking in the aromas, tasting and wondering.
The main reason for adding wine to food is flavour; alcohol is a flavour vector and if you’ve tasted dealcoholized wine then you’ll know that’s true . The acid in wine can have a tenderizing effect but essentially any protein you cook in liquid, brazing in other words, will give this effect. Then there’s the old notion that the alcohol cooks off via evaporation, but it’s untrue.
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