Regulars at a Montreal deli are lamenting the loss of an institution after the restaurant abruptly closed earlier this week. The Main Deli, on Montreal’s St-Laurent boulevard, was known for its longtime rivalry with Schwartz’s.
Montreal smoked meat has long been defined by a rivalry. Schwartz’s deli may have been better known, but for many Montrealers the best smoked meat sandwich was prepared across the street, at the Main Deli.“It really came very, very suddenly,” said David Lieber, a longtime regular who worked as a waiter at the restaurant in 1988.
The restaurant catered to the famous and the working class. In the morning, Lieber said, the Main would be full of “cleaning ladies” having breakfast; at times, the late Montreal musical legend Leonard Cohen would stop by for a sandwich. It’s not the first time the prime minister, who graduated from nearby McGill University, has spoken of his fondness for the restaurant — he recommended it to attendees at a 2014 Liberal convention and took his campaign to the restaurant ahead of a September 2021 federal leaders debate.
Opened by Peter Varvaro, the son of Italian immigrants, the Main was originally located on the East side of St-Laurent Boulevard, next to Schwartz’s, before moving across the street. Jeanne Pope, who made a documentary film about the restaurant in 2006, said she cried when she heard it was closed. Like many new arrivals to Montreal, Pope, originally from England, spent much of her time in the 2000s near St-Laurent Boulevard and quickly started going to the Main.
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